Popular Rock Climbing in New Mexico
February 14th, 2008 | by admin |
For the visiting climber New Mexico offers some of the most diverse and adventurous rock climbing in North America. Far from the limelight of places like Yosemite, Boulder and other “meccas” of climbing, the mountains and crags of New Mexico are unrivaled in terms of quality climbs, solitude, adventure, beauty, and variety of rock and terrain.
Sandia Mountains, New Mexico:
• 1-3 Pitch Classic Moderates Excellent intro to traditional climbs
Including: Trad leading skills Belay Management Efficiency techniques • Grade III and IV Multi Pitch Brilliant granite routes High in the cool pines of the Sandia Mountain Wilderness 5.8 – 5.11 climbs with no crowds • Long Alpine Rock Ridges Low 4th and easy 5th class climbs Up to 2000ft in length Amazing views and exposure Excellent terrain for the avid mountaineer
The Sandia Mountain Wilderness lies just east of Albuquerque. Granite fins, towers, and walls offer adventurous climbs from one to 15 pitches in length, fourth class ridges, to challenging ascents from grade II – V. This unique area boasts easy access by car AND more spectacular yet, the world’s longest aerial tramway takes you into this rugged mountain setting. The Sandia Peak Tramway offers a unique experience in North American climbing. Climbers can catch a tram “flight” from Albuquerque 6500 ft to the Sandia Crest at 10,300 ft in 15 minutes. This “ Alps” like climbing experience is but one of the experiences unique to climbing in the sandias.
There are many benefits to climbing in the Sandias, as, you can enjoy a great day of climbing and dine at the High Finance restaurant a top the Sandia’s Crest and take in a beautiful view of the city lights from 10,000 ft. Camping can be arranged as well as lodging in a mountain bed and breakfast or a comfortable hotel room in town. Most importantly even with these conveniences the Sandias provide a true sense of solitude in an Sub-Alpine environment. These granite rocks are never crowded or over run by climbers. Route finding, gear and mountain elements make the Sandias a challenging environment for a recreational traveling climber; in turn they provide a beautiful, fun filled environment when with an extremely knowledgeable local guide.
Route Names and Ratings
The best local guide book is Sandia Rock, by Mick Shein - from Sharp End publishing.
Moderate Routes:
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The Knife Edge of the Shield - III 4th and easy 5th class alpine ridge. Over 2000ft of amazing views and exposure
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West Face - Tombstone II 5.5; A great introduction to multi pitch climbing. Three pitches of cracks, corners and face climbing on excellent rock
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Northwest Ridge of the Thumb - III 5.6; Another fantastic alpine rock ridge. Five pitches of moderate 5th class leading to a thousand feet of quality ridge scrambling to one of the finer summits in the Sandias
Intermediate Routes:
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Second Coming - II 5.8; This route is one of the most popular in the Sandias. It boasts good rock and great climbing to a climatic finish on a shear headwall of perfect stone.
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Excitable Boys - III 5.9; This is an excellent route for those looking for a full day of climbing in the mountains. In seven pitches this varied route leads to the top of Muralla Grande, one of the Sandias biggest walls.
Advanced Routes:
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Procrastination - IV 5.8; This is the only moderate climb on the Sandias big wall, the Shield, this wild place is home to steep aid routes and cutting edge free climbs. Solitude and adventure are the key attributes of this classic climb.
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SW Ridge of the Needle - IV 5.8; This is the longest route in the Sandias, 12 pitches of interesting climbing on a historic route first done in 1959.
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Mountain Momma - III 5.10; Arguably the showcase route in the Sandias. This route features 5-6 pitches of fine stone with steep and exposed cracks, corners and edgy face to the summit of Torreon.
These routes represent some of the many classics to be found in the Sandia Mountains.
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